A remarkable wine whose heady, floral perfume of lemon blossom, lime juice, fennel and lavender reveals chalky, schisty undertones and a hint of mineral. ItÆs long and assertive, with intense lime, tangerine and lemon pulp flavours driving all down the palate, culminating with a powerful crescendo of flavour and an austere, bone-dry and briny finish. (19.3/97, drink 2022-2030+) Jeremy Oliver