Superlative, exemplary riesling of exceptional depth, length and sculpted focus. It's delicate but alluring perfume of rose petals, pear, apple and lime juice is backed by schisty notes of minerals and chalk. Long, fine and very controlled, it's tight-fisted and subdued, reluctantly opening layers of pristine, concentrated flavour that tie together neatly and culminate in long, austere finish of lingering minerality and lime juice. (19.6/98, YTD 2028-2038) Jeremy Oliver