Named after the gully that crosses its vineyards, Candio represents Suertes’ premier red bottling, although it’s composition does vary from year to year. In Jonatan’s own words, “Every plot in our state has its own peculiarities which make all of them special and unique. When it comes to a vintage where one of our plots behaves in an exceptional way, we select the fruit of its vine stocks to obtain a unique wine.” This year it was a small batch from El Barranco that stood out; 80 year old Listán Negro plantedel cordon trenzado. Although the grapes were destemmed, 75 per cent of the stems we added back to the juice and after a long, warm ferment the wine was sent to French oak casks (60 per cent Allier and 40 per cent Vosges) for 16 months aging. Bottled unfiltered.
Fleshy and sun-kissed, although with a savoury twist, this is a super complex red with ripe, fine tannins and fruit flavours that nod towards Pinot Noir as well as more Mediterranean varieties. There’s a whiff of dried herbs and complex spices as well as a stony undertone. It’s a wine that is very hard to pin down. There’s plenty of textural, ripe, inky fruit yet, on the whole, this is a fresh, fluid and elegant red that is both fascinating and delicious!