Pale gold. Smells of heather honey without the sweetness – that smoky, spice, dried-grasses aroma but with a floral side, almost like lavender. But also a dusty/chalky mineral quality that tones down all those complex aromas. Gets more smoky in the glass, more dried grasses. I’m not sure what the numbers are on this wine but it tastes almost slightly sweet, even though it is bone dry. According to Jésus Barquín, it is the long ageing on the lees that give it this buttery/creamy (mantecoso) richness and thus the impression of sweetness. Rich, rounded, deep and long but still fresh even with all the generous creamy texture that contrasts with the almost bitter flavours. Salty, yeast finish.
18/20 Points - Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com