Ghislaine Barthod works just under six hectares in Chambolle-Musigny, and within that small estate sits a run of nine premier crus. Each is farmed and vinified the same way, yet each holds a distinct character, vintage after vintage, whatever the season brings. There is no clearer case for how much site shapes a wine in Chambolle. The style is unashamedly intense: the perfume and sensuality the commune is famous for, carried on the density and structure to age, which is exactly what Ghislaine has always built toward.
The domaine has passed to her son, Clément Boillot, who now runs the family's estates alongside his parents. 2023 handed him a warm season, and he met it with discipline in the vineyard, cutting the crop back in two green-harvest passes to keep yields in check before picking in early September. Everything is destemmed and matured in a small proportion of new oak. "I am surprised by the freshness and energy from such a warm vintage," he says. "The fruit is exuberant." Ripe but vibrant, with the structure to age, these are the wines of a young vigneron making the most of a remarkable inheritance.
We have six wines from 2023, all in very small quantities: Bourgogne Rouge, the village Chambolle-Musigny, and four premier crus, Les Baudes, Aux Beaux Bruns, Les Châtelots and Les Cras. They will not be here long.
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