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COMANDO G - Spain's most exciting Garnacha

by Hugh French | Jul 16, 2025

COMANDO G

"The partnership of winemakers Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi and Fernando García, established in 2008, is producing some of Spain’s most sought-after and intriguingly graceful and complex wines. All of the reds are made from Garnacha, and aside from the entry-level Los Brujos bottling, they are highly allocated and, given their widespread demand and limited production (seven wines, from 10 hectares of vineyards), aren’t too easy to find.

The style here is distinctly elegant, with an emphasis on balance and energy rather than brawn. This is a cool, mountainous area, so even in hot vintages the fruit, which is drawn from old vines planted at high altitude, is able to maintain freshness. Winemaking here is done with a decidedly light hand, meaning whole cluster fermentations, no new oak influence and minimal handling. The wines show intense floral and spice character, with no undue weight and distinctly energetic character. Indeed, there’s often a Pinot Noir-like laciness and detail to the wines but they emphatically do not lack flavor intensity."

Josh Raynolds, vinous.com

 

THE LATEST RELEASE

"I tasted wines from 2022 (a more Mediterranean and intense year) and 2023 (a cooler year of elegance, freshness and precision), with a perfect cool September and also rain that improved the quality of the year after a very warm August. 2022 is their last vintage of the El Reventón single-vineyard wine, when they started planting new vines and building their new winery. 2023 is the first year vinified in the brand-new winery. There will be more changes in 2024: continuing the plantation of more vines, downsizing (less regional wine and more village, mostly from purchased grapes) and developing their farm in the estate around Rumbo al Norte. In 2022, they are extending the élevage of the single-vineyard crus Iruelas, Umbrías, Rey Moro and Rumbo al Norte."

THE WINE ADVOCATE

2023 Sierra de Gredos 'La Bruja'

Usually $74
Now $67

"The regional red 2023 La Bruja is now 600 from Cebreros, so fewer bottles were produced and there will be even less in 2024 (20,000 bottles). It’s like a meatier, juicier version of the 2021 and less reductive, but still stony and fine boned. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavours and is floral, clean, red fruited and herbal, with 14% alcohol and very good freshness and acidity, coming through as balanced and elegant."

95 Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

2023 Sierra de Gredos 'Rozas'

Usually $119
Now $109

"The 2023 Rozas village from Rozas de Puerto Real comes from five different vineyards totaling five hectares on granite soils at an average altitude of 900 meters. It’s juicy, with notes of pomegranate and strawberry and a powdery texture akin to chalk. Clean and tasty."

95 Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

2023 Sierra de Gredos 'Navatalgordo'

Usually $119
Now $109

"The village 2023 Navatalgordo has grapes from five different parajes or lieu-dits, from the quartz soils from the village. It has a stony personality, but a perfumed nose of violets and violet pastille, with silty tannins and good grip. It’s matured in oak vats to polish those village tannins. Very complete and opens up in the glass nicely, as it’s a little more austere than the one from Villanueva. This is the more tannic of the village reds."

95+ Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

2022 Sierra de Gredos 'Pena la Mora 1er'

Usually $269
Now $244

"A new lieu-dit or paraje red wine, the 2022 Peña la Mora 1er was produced from old-vine Garnacha from 1.17 hectares at 1,200m altitude and a northern exposure on granite soils in the village of Navatalgordo. This is where El Tamboril is, so it has some commonalities and is concentrated, with some meaty notes, yeasts and red cherries. It has the grainy, somewhat Italian tannins from the Navatalgordo village, with freshness that feels unusual for 2022. It’s a wine with more intensity (the cold giving it has more polyphenols) but the wine is also cooler, reflecting the higher altitude. It takes time to open up in the glass."

95 Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

2022 Sierra de Gredos 'La Brena 1er'

Usually $269
Now $244

"The vino de paraje (lieu-dit) 2022 La Breña 1er makes a comeback after the 2020 vintage; it was not produced in 2021. This has a similar profile to the single-vineyard La Breña: it’s perfumed and elegant, without the precision of the single vineyard but still amazingly elegant, with very fine granite tannins and a supple, almost salty twist in the finish that makes you salivate. So fresh I forgot we were tasting a wine from 2022. It’s narrow, complete, mineral, elegant and crsip, with Villanueva finesse."

96+ Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

2022 Cebreros 'El Reventon'

Usually $474
Now $444

"The 2022 El Reventón, from the El Reventón vineyard in Cebreros is the last vintage of this wine from Comando G. It’s intense, a condition of the year, with more stuffing but no excess ripeness or heat. It’s the only cru on slate soils and has super tasty flavours, umami, almost salty and with powdery tannins. The 15% alcohol on the label is perfectly disguised and unnoticeable, and it comes through as surprisingly fresh for the weather. This is a triumph over the conditions of the year. It should develop nicely in bottle, taking on more finesse."

96 Points
Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate


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